The 4th World Cocoa Conference in Berlin dealt intensively with cocoa growers’ problems like poverty, child labour and environmental destruction, as well as possible solutions. The final “Berlin Declaration” introduced a new vision of the future for the cocoa sector.

By Dr. Bernhard Reichenbach

Business as usual in the cocoa ­industry is no longer an option. We have to break the mould,” said Dr Jean-Marc Anga, Executive Director of the International Cocoa Organization (ICCO) at the 4th World Cocoa Conference, which recently took place in Berlin, attended by more than 1,500 participants. The annual conference, organised by the ICCO and – this time around – the German government, is the leading event for the global cocoa sector and unites the most important stakeholders along the value-added chain. Under the motto “A New Vision for the Cocoa Sector,” the event highlighted its massive problems and sought to find solutions.

Cocoa is one of the world’s most important agricultural products and represents the main source of income for 40 to 50 million people. Many of the cocoa plantation coops, primarily in West Africa, are confronted with poverty, child labour, progressive deforestation and environmental degradation, which was made even worse by the rapid fall of cocoa prices. As a result, cocoa-related revenues for small farmers on the Ivory Coast – the largest cocoa producer worldwide – have shrunk by 36 % within one year. This was reflected in the global market price for cocoa, which fell sharply between September 2016 and June 2017 to under 2,000 USD/t. The risk for these volatile prices is borne by the farmers.

Several factors contributed to the price decline: concentration processes by dealers, processors and retailers, as well as speculation, along with the overproduction of cocoa. The latter comes at great cost to the environment, especially to the rain forests, as once the soil is leached of nutrients, then cultivation moves on to areas of intact rain forest and effectively destroys it. This destruction has negative effects on the climate: precipitation decreases somewhat, and the hard-to-reverse desertification process marches onward. One of the main causes for this vicious cycle was barely mentioned during the event: the unfettered growth of population leads to the ongoing development of new areas of cultivation, while at the same time harvest yields should actually be limited in order to maintain stable prices.

At the conclusion of the world cocoa conference, the “Berlin Declaration” introduced a new vision for the cocoa sector. The delegates formulated a clear message: a sustainable cocoa sector is only possible if the producers can earn living wages and meet their basic needs with their incomes. This responsibility lies with all participants from producers to traders and from processing to consumers and governments, and this should be approached as a common goal.

Amongst other things highlighted at the conference, new products could offer considerable potential to improve the critical situation. Gregory Aharonian, founder and president of the KukaXoco company, presented chocolate products without fat, sugar, or sweeteners. While the average sugar content of conventional chocolates is 50 % – some even have a toxic content of 75 % – KukaXoco has completely reduced this addictive component that is known to cause diabetes and obesity.

The highlight: scientists at the company have proven that safe and healthy coca leaf extracts (FDA- and DEA-approved) can eliminate the bitterness typical of unsweetened cocoa. “This allows the chocolate industry to completely remove sugar from their products – without affecting the taste and aroma – thus making chocolate a truly healthy food,” emphasised Gregory Aharonian.

In late 2016, KukaXoco produced its first sugar- and sweetener-free dark chocolate, which consisted of 97 % cocoa mass and 3 % cocoa extract. Packaged chocolate products are available in bulk, and the procedure is ready for licensing. This coming autumn, the company plans to introduce a sugar-free chocolate spread to the market. Containing just 5 % fat, it will cost only slightly more than conventional products, which consist of up to 90 % fat and sugar.

The increased production of fine cocoa should also tap into new potential, as the market share is currently still low. Martin Christy, director of the International Institute of Chocolate and Cacao Tasting, supports increasing demand and – similar to coffee and wine, where top products command top prices – creating a premium segment in order to achieve higher prices through increased quality (with regard to toxins like cadmium or pesticides). “A 50-gramme bar could conceivably cost ten euros,” postulated Martin Christy.

Several speakers were on the hunt for the “secret” to producing the best chocolate. For Andreas Bertram, CEO of ZDS (German confectionery college), an original aroma without additives is essential. The basis of the aroma depends on all of the components being “perfect” – from the cocoa genetics to fermentation and beyond to processing. Amongst the most important factors are the length of fermentation and the conching time.

In the opinion of Warren Hsu from Taiwanese chocolate maker Fu Wan Chocolate, the quality of chocolate relies 80 % on the ingredients, especially the cocoa beans. He focuses primarily on organic cocoa cultivation, fermentation in small batches with containers holding 4 to 6 kg , as well as special roasting methods.

Samantha Aquim from Brazilian chocolate maker Aquim focuses on especially high-quality cocoa beans. The roasting is slow and at low temperatures, in order to highlight the fruit’s aroma rather than covering up deficiencies, as is typical in the market. Add to that the eschewal of milk and a gentle conching process that does not negatively affect the original aromas.

The motto of Venezuelan chocolate maker Casa Franceschi, founded in 1830, includes the production of chocolates from various cocoa varieties. According to CEO José Vicente Franceschi, around 400 factors influence the aroma of cocoa – starting with the selection of variety and region of cultivation as well as the overall treatment of the plants. He believes that “no healthy product can come from an unhealthy environment.”